Green or Greed: Analyzing Media Framing of H&M's Greenwashing Allegations

Recently, the fast fashion industry has received a lot of criticism, particularly for its social and environmental impact, unethical labor practices, and unsustainable production methods. As sustainability becomes an increasingly pressing issue worldwide, many individuals in society have been vocal in wanting fast fashion brands to take action. Therefore, an expanding movement has surrounded the fast fashion industry, in which they are faced with increasing pressure to become 'green'. H&M, a global leader in the fast fashion industry, has been repeatedly accused of falsely portraying itself as an eco-friendly company, but rather uses sustainability as a strategic tool without genuinely committing to being sustainable. While the phenomenon of greenwashing has been widely researched from a corporate or consumer perspective, limited research has been conducted on its framing in the media. Therefore, this thesis addresses this gap by answering the following question: "How do international fashion magazines frame H&M's greenwashing allegations?" To gain an in-depth understanding, a qualitative thematic analysis was conducted, combining both inductive and deductive coding strategies. Additionally, 43 articles from five different fashion magazines (Vogue, The Business of Fashion, Fashion United, Good on You, and Sourcing Journal) were analyzed. Following this, the thematic analysis revealed varied portrayals of H&M regarding its greenwashing allegations amongst fashion magazines. Some magazines frame the brand positively, portraying its sustainability efforts as genuine, and greatly use promotional language regarding H&M. On the other hand, some fashion magazines take an opposite stance by negatively portraying H&M and by pointing out inconsistencies in the brand's green marketing and questioning the authenticity of their environmental efforts. Across the dataset, several articles suggest that H&M's sustainability messaging may serve more as a marketing strategy than genuine CSR. Additionally, the findings frame consumers as the victims of the company's greenwashing but also as agents of change. Overall, this study aimed to contribute to the existing literature on fast-fashion brands' use of greenwashing. Additionally, this research can help brands make informed decisions regarding greenwashing and whether this is the correct approach to attract consumers and increase their revenues.